Precious metals
Element: AU
Melting point: 1 064 °C
Density: 19,3 g/cm³
Colour: Yellowish
Gold has been used for decades on jewellery and for decoration, as well as as currency. Gold doesn’t oxidize or tarnish the same way silver does, and that is why gold is used nowadays on computer circuits and for coating different connections.
Gold itself is very soft, and to harden gold alloy, it is mixed with various metals. This alloy makes it possible to use gold as jewellery. Still, it is possible for gold jewellery to tarnish as it has mixed metals in the alloy.
In Finland, the quality marking is made per mille, meaning how much pure noble metal is in the jewelry. Carats (ct) are an old measurement, which is still used today, but in Finland, the quality mark by carats is not used.
So, if the jewelry has a 750 stamp, it means that the jewellery has 750 ‰ (per mille) pure gold.
Carats/per mille
9 / 375 | 14 / 585 | 18 / 750 | 22 / 916 | 24 / 999
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth. If you use anti-tarnish cloth, make sure it is suitable for gold jewellery.
Gold usually doesn't tarnish, but the pH of the skin can cause it to tarnish. You can prevent this by taking jewellery off when working, especially with chemicals.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
You should take off gold jewellery when swimming at the pool; chlorine added to the water can harm your gold jewellery.
Recycling
Gold jewellery and items made out of gold can be recycled by melting.
Stone setting
Especially gold, 750 per mille (18ct) is perfect for stone setting since it is resilient and easy to shape around the stone. Gold alloy with 585 (14ct) can harden too fast while setting the stone, making stone setting more hard.
Delicate stones, like tourmaline and emerald, can be set in the fine gold.
Yellow gold
Usually, yellow gold has a mix of copper and silver in it. The most commonly used alloy in Finland is 585 (14ct) or 750 (18ct).
Under than 585, yellow gold alloys may tarnish due to more copper per mille. Because gold in its natural form is really soft, it may be more prone to scratches and dents.
To keep jewellery in good shape, it is recommended to give it to a jeweler for a checkup every year.
White gold
In the past, nickel was commonly used in white gold alloys to achieve a bright white colour. Today, palladium is typically used instead.
White gold is more durable than yellow gold, making it an excellent choice for gemstone settings. Most white gold jewellery is also rhodium plated, as the natural yellow tint of gold can become visible over time if the rhodium coating wears away or is not applied.
Rose gold
Rose gold, also known as red gold, is created by alloying gold with copper. The added copper makes rose gold highly durable and well suited for everyday wear.
The intensity of the red colour depends on the amount of copper in the alloy. A 585 rose gold alloy generally has a deeper reddish hue than 750 rose gold. A 375 alloy is commonly used for rose gold jewellery.
Element: Ag
Melting point: 960 °C
Density: 10.5 g/cm³
Colour: Light grey with a subtle bluish tint
Silver has traditionally been used for tableware, decorative objects, currency, and jewellery. Today, the largest consumers of silver are the electronics and photographic industries. Thanks to its excellent reflectivity, silver has also been widely used in the manufacture of mirrors.
In Finland, silver jewellery is hallmarked according to its fineness, expressed in parts per thousand (‰). For example, a 925 hallmark indicates that the alloy contains 925‰ (92.5%) pure silver.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth. If you use anti-tarnish cloth, make sure it is suitable for silver jewellery.
Silver jewellery oxidises over time. Oxidation can be reduced by removing jewellery before working with chemicals or cleaning.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
Tarnishing can be reduced by storing jewellery in an airtight container away from direct sunlight.
Silver jewellery may corrode when exposed to salt water, such as seawater. It is therefore recommended to remove silver jewellery before swimming.
Recycling
Silver jewellery can be recycled by melting the metal and reusing it to create new pieces. Silver is slightly more difficult to recycle than gold because any solder used in the piece must be removed before the metal can be melted down.
Stone Setting
Silver is well suited for gemstone settings. Particularly delicate gemstones can also be set in fine silver, which is softer and more malleable than sterling silver.
Silver (Sterling silver)
Silver jewelry stamped with the 925 hallmark contains 95,2% pure silver. The rest of the percent, 7,5%, is copper. Pure silver is soft, and by alloying it with copper, the jewellery is durable for everyday use.
Because sterling silver contains copper, it may tarnish over time.
Chemicals found in cosmetics, perfumes, hairsprays, and cleaning products can accelerate tarnishing. For this reason, it is recommended to put on jewellery only after applying beauty or hair care products.
Argentium Silver ®
Argentium Silver® is an alloy containing germanium, which makes it significantly more resistant to oxidation than traditional sterling silver.
Argentium Silver® is also harder than conventional sterling silver, making it more resistant to scratches and everyday wear.
In addition, Argentium Silver® has a lower melting point than traditional silver-copper alloys.
Element: Pd
Melting point: 1,552 °C
Density: 11.8 g/cm³
Colour: Silvery white
Palladium is a relatively new precious metal in the jewellery industry. Not all goldsmiths are able to work with palladium, as its melting point is higher than that of metals such as gold and silver.
Palladium is lighter than platinum, so it is possible to make delicate but durable jewellery. Palladium is still less common than other precious metals, still this precious metal has been used in jewellery around the world for decades.
In Finland, palladium jewellery is hallmarked according to its fineness, expressed in parts per thousand (‰). For example, a 950 hallmark indicates that the alloy contains 950‰ (95%) pure palladium.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth. If you use anti-tarnish cloth, make sure it is suitable for palladium jewellery.
Palladium doesn't tarnish. Take jewellery off when working, especially with chemicals.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
It is recommended to remove palladium jewellery before handling chemicals or cleaning products.
Recycling
Palladium can be recycled, although many goldsmiths do not accept palladium jewellery for recycling.
Stone Setting
Palladium is well suited for gemstone settings because it is relatively easy to work with.
Element: Pt
Melting point: 1,772 °C
Density: 21.5 g/cm³
Colour: Greyish white
Platinum is very different to work with than other precious metals, which is why platinum needs its own working tools. For this reason, platinum jewellery takes longer to produce and is more expensive than jewellery made from other precious metals.
High-quality platinum alloys are hypoallergenic, so allergic reactions to platinum jewellery very rare.
Platinum is durable, and this is why jewellery made out of platinum is durable, even when the jewellery is delicate.
In Finland, platinum jewellery is hallmarked according to its fineness, expressed in parts per thousand (‰). For example, a 950 hallmark indicates that the alloy contains 950‰ (95%) pure platinum.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth. If you use anti-tarnish cloth, make sure it is suitable for platinum jewellery.
Platinum doesn't tarnish. Take jewellery off when working, especially with chemicals.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
It is recommended to remove platinum jewellery before handling chemicals or cleaning products.
Recycling
Platinum can be recycled, although not all goldsmiths have the facilities to accept platinum jewellery and recycle the metal from older pieces.
Stone Setting
Platinum is an excellent choice for gemstone settings. It is soft but tough, allowing the metal to be shaped securely around a gemstone.
Element: Cu
Melting point: 1,083 °C
Density: 8.96 g/cm³
Colour: Reddish
Copper is a soft and highly malleable metal that has been used as a form of currency throughout history in many parts of the world.
In jewellery making, copper is commonly alloyed with precious metals. Adding copper changes the properties of the alloy, making it stronger, more durable, and easier to work with.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Copper oxidises easily. If it is exposed to moisture or water for prolonged periods, it may develop a green patina, commonly known as verdigris.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
It is recommended to remove copper jewellery before handling chemicals or cleaning products.
Recycling
Copper can be recycled by melting it down and using the material to create new objects or for other purposes.
Stone Setting
Gemstones can be set in copper, and wire-wrapped copper pendants are especially popular. However, copper is not commonly used by professional goldsmiths for traditional gemstone settings.
Melting point: 900–940 °C
Density: Approx. 8.20 g/cm³
Colour: Yellowish
Brass is not commonly used in jewellery. It is easy to shape by hand and is more commonly used for locks, cartridge cases, and decorative objects.
Brass is also sometimes used in the manufacture of tools intended for jewellery making.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Brass oxidises over time, although the rate of oxidation depends on the copper content of the alloy.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
It is recommended to remove brass jewellery before handling chemicals or cleaning products or when swimming.
Recycling
Brass can be recycled by melting it down and reusing the material.
Stone Setting
Gemstones can be set in brass, although professional goldsmiths rarely use brass for traditional gemstone settings.
Melting point: Approx. 950 °C
Density: Approx. 8.7 g/cm³
Colour: Yellowish brown
Bronze is commonly used as a casting material, as it is quite tough and difficult to shape by hand. Today, bronze is most often used for artistic works, sculptures, and decorative objects.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
If bronze is exposed to moisture or water for prolonged periods, it may develop a patina.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
It is recommended to remove bronze jewellery before handling chemicals or cleaning products.
Recycling
Bronze can be recycled by melting it down and reusing the material to create new objects or for other purposes.
Stone Setting
Bronze is not commonly used for gemstone settings because its toughness makes it more difficult to work with than traditional jewellery metals.
Melting point: Approx. 1,040 °C
Density: Approx. 8.7 g/cm³
Colour: Silvery grey
Nickel silver has been used in cutlery around the world and sometimes it is used in jewellery. However, its use in jewellery has declined because it contains nickel, which may cause allergic reactions.
Today, nickel silver is commonly used in the coins and decorative objects.
Nickel silver can be difficult to tell apart from sterling silver. Jewellery made from nickel silver may be stamped with marks such as UH or ALP (in Finland).
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Nickel silver oxidises over the time. Oxidation can be reduced by removing jewellery before working with chemicals or cleaning.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
Recycling
Nickel silver can be recycled, although not all goldsmiths accept it for recycling.
Stone Setting
Gemstones can be set in nickel silver, but this alloy is generally not recommended for jewellery because of its nickel content and the risk of allergic reactions.
Element: Ti
Melting point: 1,668 °C
Density: 4.5 g/cm³
Colour: Available in a variety of colours, though naturally grey
Titanium is an lightweight and durable metal. It is used to manufacture jewellery, everyday products, tools, and components.
Few goldsmiths work with titanium, because it requires specialised equipment and very high temperatures to work with.
Titanium is hard, which makes it demanding on tools such as drill bits, files, and saw blades, causing them to wear much more quickly.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Titanium may oxidize over the time. Oxidation can be reduced by removing jewellery before working with chemicals or cleaning.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
Recycling
Titanium can be recycled, although many goldsmiths do not accept titanium for recycling.
Stone Setting
Gemstones can be set in titanium, but its hardness makes the setting process more challenging and time-consuming.
Gold-filled jewellery is not made from a single metal, it has two layers: a base metal, such as bronze, silver, or brass, with a thick outer layer of gold.
Because the gold layer is thicker than standard gold plating, gold-filled jewellery is generally more durable and resistant to wear. It is commonly used in jewellery and watches.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
Silver plating is commonly applied using electroplating. In this process, two metals are immersed in an electrolyte solution, and an electric current transfers a thin layer of silver onto the surface of the base metal.
Some jewellery is treated with a fine silver plating, which provides a bright finish.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
There are several methods of gold plating, the most common being electroplating. Two metals are immersed in an electrolyte bath, and an electric current deposits a thin layer of gold onto the surface of the jewellery. Generally, the longer the piece remains in the plating bath, the thicker the gold layer becomes.
Gold plating is available in a variety of shades, depending on the composition of the gold alloy used in the plating solution.
Gold can also be applied using physical or chemical deposition methods.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
Rhodium is a member of the platinum group metals and is commonly used for rhodium plating.
Rhodium plating is performed by electroplating, where an electric current deposits a thin layer of rhodium onto the jewellery.
White gold and sterling silver jewellery are frequently rhodium plated.
The natural yellow tint of white gold can become visible over time, and a rhodium coating gives the jewellery its bright, white appearance.
Clean jewellery with lukewarm water and use mild dish soap (which has a neutral pH). You can use a new, clean toothbrush.
After washing jewellery, dry it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Store jewellery separately from other pieces to help prevent scratches.
Keep the jewellery in its original box or another clean jewellery box. Alternatively, wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth and place it in an airtight bag.
