Stone settings

Bezel Setting

The bezel setting is one of the oldest gemstone-setting techniques and is also known as a rub-over setting.

A strip of metal is surrounding the entire edge of the gemstone, holding it securely in place.

This setting is suitable for most gemstones.

+ Excellent protection against impacts
+ Holds the gemstone securely

- Allows less light to reach the gemstone, reducing its brilliance

Prong setting

The prong setting (also known as claw setting) is the most commonly used setting style. The gemstone can get maximum light, showing more of its brilliance. The prongs do not catch on clothing, if the setting is done right.

A setting can have four, five, six or even eight prongs.

Suitable for most gemstone shapes.

+ Maximises the brilliance of the gemstone

- Prongs should be checked and tightened periodically

Basket Setting

A basket setting is similar to a prong setting, but the gem is supported by basket under the stone. There are multiple variations of basket settings, making them popular for jewellery intended for everyday use.

Suitable for gemstones of all shapes.

+ Provides excellent support for the gemstone

- Slightly reduces brilliance compared with a standard prong setting

V-Prong

V-shaped prongs are designed to protect gemstones with pointed corners, such as princess-cut and baguette-cut stones.

+ Excellent protection for vulnerable corners

- Suitable only for gemstones with pointed corners

Bar Setting

A bar setting is created directly from the metal using traditional goldsmithing techniques or casting. It is commonly used for rings where gemstones goes around the ring.

+ Allows plenty of light to reach the gemstones

- On eternity rings, stones may loosen over time as the metal wears

Channel Setting

A channel setting is best for  square or rectangular gemstones, but round stones can be used too. When using round stones, the dirt may get trapped between the empty space.

Brilliant, princess and step-cut gemstones are best for this setting.

+ Provides an elegant appearance with excellent brilliance

- Stones may become loose as the metal wears

Flush Setting

A flush setting is one of the simplest and quickest setting techniques when done correctly. The gemstone is set at the same level with the metal surface, and there is not prongs that could catch on clothing.

The metal is burnished tightly around the stone, making it very secure.

+ Secure setting with no exposed prongs

- Suitable only for round gemstones

Tension setting

In a tension setting, the gemstone is held in place by the pressure of the metal.

In this setting it is best to use strong metals such as titanium, platinum or gold should be used, together with durable gemstones such as diamonds, rubies or sapphires.

In the simplest design, the gemstone sits between the two ends of the ring, while more complex versions the ends wrap around the stone.

+ Minimalist and elegant appearance

- A severe impact may dislodge the gemstone

Halo

A halo setting has a central gemstone surrounded by a smaller stones. It creates the illusion of a larger centre stone and is one of the most eye-catching styles.

The centre gemstone can be any shape, while the surrounding stones are typically brilliant-cut or princess-cut.

+ Highly decorative and visually striking

- Generally more expensive than simpler settings

Cluster

A cluster setting typically contains five or more gemstones around the center gemstone. It can be designed in many different ways.

The outer gemstones are usually secured with one or two prongs. Stones may become loose with frequent everyday wear.

+ Eye-catching and easily customisable

- Can be expensive, and stones may loosen with prolonged daily wear

Grain Setting

A grain setting is one of the most technically challenging setting techniques It is used with brilliant-cut diamonds or other small round gemstones.

Tiny beads of metal are raised from the surface using graver and shaped with specialised beading tools to secure each stone. Because the beads are very small, they rarely catch on clothing.

+ Smooth surface that is unlikely to snag

- Poorly done setting may loose the stones

Pavé

A pavé setting uses many small gemstones placed closely together. The technique is similar to grain setting and is most commonly used with brilliant-cut stones.

Pavé can be applied to jewellery of many different shapes and surfaces.

+ Creates a continuous surface of sparkling gemstones

- Stones may loosen over time if the setting wears or was not made securely